This article was originally published in Tasting Panel Magazine September/October 2024 issue. You can click here to read the digital magazine https://online.fliphtml5.com/rjut/ftyl/#p=92
An Ambitious Alliance
Collaboration and Community are the Hallmarks of these Top Willamette Valley Somms
Spotlighting sommeliers is a departure from my focus on the wine media. My long-running “Turning the Tables” interview column for Wine Industry Advisor has opened my eyes to the possibility of highlighting other personalities in the wine business. I interview writers and winemakers. Why not Somms?
Willamette Valley (WV) has rapidly evolved into one of the premier wine and culinary destinations in the U.S. It has not gone unnoticed that while many service industries within wine regions compete, WV is known for its alliances. Let’s hear what these five WV “Top Somm” personalities have in common, and how their perspectives on service, community, and collaboration may differ.
Backgrounds & Biographies
Levi Seed is a Certified Somm at Joel Palmer House Restaurant. He graduated from Oregon Culinary Institute after high school, is a cancer survivor and community activist. He manages the world’s largest cellar of Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs with over 7,000 bottles and 600 SKUs dating to the 1990s.
Ron Acierto, Wine & Beverage Director ōkta | Tributary Hotel, grew up in the Philippines through age 15 before immigrating to the U.S. where he discovered his passion for wine and hospitality. He has worked at several fine dining restaurants in Portland, and opened his own restaurant and wine bar Muselet.
Elaine Heide, Wine Director at Jory Restaurant at The Allison Inn, is a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), Certified WSET Educator (Diploma), and Stage One MW Student. She has over 20 years’ experience in the wine trade. Her focal point for The Allison’s wine program is community, inclusivity and education.
Matthew Fosket, Wine Director & Certified Somm joined the Painted Lady Restaurant in 2005 as their first employee, and has 10 years of service in his current role. He is a certified Somm though the Court of Masters Sommeliers. His cellar showcases Oregon wines along with a diverse global selection.
Kirsten Hansen is the co-owner of Lion & Owl Restaurant, and holds a WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wine. She and partner Chef Crystal Platt collaborate daily on seasonal farm to table pairings.
Describe the Willamette Valley Sommelier culture and community
Levi – Competitive. But not with each other. Collectively, we all have the overarching goal of providing amazing service and helping our guests navigate the world of Oregon wines. We know each other, but we’re busy and focused on our own programs. I’d love the chance to meet monthly and discuss trends, markets and ideas for growing the valley as a whole.
Ron – Having worked in Portland and WV all of my career as an Oregon resident, the community, specifically winemakers and producers are the most generous with their time, knowledge, sharing all of their experiences, lifestyle, hardships, successes within the industry. Having also volunteered with a number of wine charity events, my friends and colleagues in this industry are amazing, friendly, genuine and most of all passionate with all things Oregon beverages.
Elaine – Dedicated and caring sommeliers are found everywhere here; from winery tasting rooms to restaurant dining rooms. The support and cooperation within this network is parallel to that found among Willamette Valley producers, who have collaborated with each other for decades. The magic of this place comes from both sides: the welcoming hospitality culture and the community of people who grow and make the wines we love to share.
Matthew – There is both a lot of excitement, and a lot of pride in the people who work in wine in the Willamette Valley. From Sommeliers, to winemakers, interns and guest facing employees at wineries. We all know we work in a very special place, creating world class experiences.
Kirsten – The Willamette Valley wine culture in general is very kind, welcoming and supportive. Our proximity to winemakers willing to share information and welcome questions, makes us a more familial, approachable and well-informed group.
What’s your “Cellar Story” or “Cellar Strategy”?
Levi – Oregon Pinot Noir! Our cellar has the largest collection of Willamette Valley pinot noir of any restaurant worldwide. With over 1,000 wineries nearby why serve anything else? Our long term relationship with these producers allows us to offer unique wines and older vintages that would otherwise be missed, and many of which are exclusive to our restaurant alone.
Ron – Chef Matt Lighters tasting menu utilizes the bounty of okta farm in Ribbon Ridge and surrounding orchards, farmers, butchers, fromagers, fishmongers. Our customers get to be a part of the journey and immerse themselves in Okta’s stories, along with those of all of our wine producers, small operation cheesemakers, century farms, and small batch distilleries. We engage them in an immersive hospitality experience, sense of place and time, making okta a vessel to evoke great memories.
Elaine – The cellar at The Allison contains treasures from fifteen years of purchasing. There’s wine that was brought in by every person preceding me as the head of the program. Whether their love was for tiny producers in Burgundy or Walla Walla, German Riesling, or grower Champagne, I inherited these bottles that were chosen over the years. I love that there’s a history of special bottles, aging beautifully in the cellar, that connect me to them.
Matthew – Most of our guests enjoy wine pairings every night. In the cellar, I focus on benchmark producers from Oregon and key old-world regions. Our connection to Burgundy is obvious, so I try to provide great Burgundy selections with significant age. Don’t miss our northern Rhône section either.
Kirsten – I build a cellar that speaks to who we are, and what we believe hospitality truly is. Since I won’t put a wine on the list that I don’t love, I’m willing to bring each bottle home if it doesn’t work for a customer. It might be a selfish strategy, but I’m willing to open anything to help a customer make a new discovery. If they don’t like it, I have a great glass to drink when I get home.